DiFFeReNT STRoKeS for DiFFeReNT FolKS

This post is all about what I think
and about the products and tools I use.
That doesn't mean it's right, but just to let you know I'm usually right about everything. Teasing, teasing, but really I am ;)

I'm going to start with my Favorite 
Paint

I have thought about the best way to share this with you and I have decided the long story is the only way.

I have been redoing for 8 years off and on. I have never taken a class and I don't really know what I'm doing before I do it the first time. I do love to figure things out.....even if it's cheaper to just buy it.
I just think it's fun.

So I experiment with a lot of different products and sometimes I will end up using a product or discovering a technique that I like because I'm not patient enough to get what I think I really want. This is how I found my most favorite paint in the Whole Wide World...... so far.

It was late on a Friday night and I had just gotten the cutest dresser. I could hardly wait to get up the next morning to get her all fixed up, but I didn't have the right color of paint. I have used all kinds of paint and I didn't really think there was a big difference besides cost, so mostly I would just use whatever paint had the color I wanted. 

NOT ANY MORE!
The closest store to me is Smiths Market Place (Fred Myers to everyone outside of Utah) and I new they had a paint section; I just couldn't wait until morning. So I went down and picked out my color and when they pulled the paint off the shelf I noticed that it was on sale for $12 regualy $15. I was a little scared but I was willing to try it for $12. I'm so glad I did because I love

HD Designs

Interior Latex

Satin Finish

and I love the price too. This was the dresser and that's one coat.

If you are thinking that's crappy, the paint is coming off, I made it look like that with my sander. And yes Silly, I do paint thing just to beat them up to make them look old. Doesn't everyone?

Here's a closer look

Enough about that.

Here are some of the colors I use:

*Popcorn B14-4 /The White I Use for Everything

This is the same color as the Dover White in Krylon spray paint

and all the trim in my house. I didn't do that on purpose.

*Technology Blue E15-2 / Darker Blue Gray

*Hurricane Cliffs E16-3/ A More Blue Gray Blue

Santa's Cheeks A5-4/ The Perfect Pink

You haven't seen this yet on my blog but you will very soon

*Cha-Cha Pink A25-2/Hot Pink

This is the pink in Goose's Room

*Metropolitan E21-4/ Softer Light Blue

*Bloopers E25-4/ Light Blue

Back Kitchen Wall

Can you tell, I like BLUE?

I use satin finishes when I'm redoing so that I have an even finish after distressing. Glossy paints can gum up with the distressing process. I use semi-gloss for walls, it's just what I like.

 Primer  
 Kilz 
Original Oil-Base

It covers up everything and sticks to every surface.

This is my newest toy and I LoVE it!

I have this one

and

this one

Spray Paint

for the smaller jobs

RUST-OLEUM

2X COVER

More bang for your buck. Great coverage and lots of great colors. I usually get mine at Home Depot (better selection) or Wal-Mart.

Spray Primer

Kilz 

Original Oil-Base

Same as the big can just in a raddle can.

Stain

MINWAX

Penetrates, Stains & Seals

Provincial 211

(my favorite color)

I love this stuff, I use it for everything.

Like this

and this

and this.

Seal/Top Coat

I was trying to find a way to best explain this and I came across a form at

 GardenWeb and this is what I found: I could not agree more

Some points to remember about finishes.....

- Virtually any type of varnish will work over latex/acrylic paint EXCEPT lacquer.

- Oil-based varnishes will yellow. Avoid their use on white or very light colors unless you are trying to achieve an antiqued or aged effect. They also take longer to dry, so keep this in mind if you are doing multiple coats. You may only be able to paint one coat a day.

- Water-based finishes dry faster and are non-yellowing. They are not quite as durable as oil-based varnishes, but they are still very resistant to scuffing and abrasion.

*Water-based acrylic varnish will go on milky-white, but will dry to a crystal-clear finish.

So I use

MINWAX

Fast-Drying Polyurethane

on most projects

and 

Valathane

Polyurethane

Water Based 

on my white or light colored projects

notice the Water Based

I like both brands so I use both.

Last summer I painted my table and sealed it with Lacquer. I HATE IT. I hate to work with it and everything bleeds through to my white paint, even ball point pin. I will be sanding it all off this summer and redoing it again.

Spray Seals/Top Coat

for crafts and small things I use

RUST-OLEUM

 Crystal Clear Enamel Spray

and sometimes

Krylon 

Crystal Clear Spray

Glue

For wood I use 

GORILLA

Wood Glue

and for metal I use 

E6000

Wood Filler
MINWAX

Stainable Wood Filler

I like to get the tube because it doesn't seem to dry out as fast as the tub.

Clean up

I use

Mineral Spirits

You can buy this at any paint store or  Home Depot, Smith's Market Place even has it. I use it for paint clean up on my paint sprayer and paint brushes, mistakes made while painting (oops), thinning paint on a surface to give a worn off look and when I have put too much stain over paint. I will show you these techniques throughout this blog.

Sanding

I think there is a big difference between shabby/rustic and junky looking furniture. To me junky means nicks and dings in solid flat surfaces and peeling paint. For this reason I sand almost every piece of furniture to some degree. A lot of DIYers (Do It Yourselfers) will suggest not sanding and to use an oil-based primer. You can totally do this but if your piece has nicks and dings before you prime and paint it will still have them after you prime and paint too. 

 I would never paint over peeling paint. I think it just looks gross. I sand AND use oil-based primer.

The little Guy

I actually just bought a different one but pretty much the same thing.

The BIG Guy

I would be lost with out these guys. I do NOT use paint strippers. I HATE them. They are really messy and for the most part they don't work all that great. If I have to remove a really hard finish or layers and layers of paint, I use the Big Guy. For everything else I use the little Guy. I have had quite a few sanders in the past and I like the small square ones the best. I can get into tight corners and they are great for maneuvering around edges.

I don't like any sander that you have to buy special sandpaper for (shape, sticky back or whatever). It can get really expensive.

Sandpaper 

Any old Sandpaper will do. I buy the cheap sheets and cute them to size.

When I am stripping or refinishing a piece of wood furniture, I almost always start with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to remove the old finish (or most of it anyways), then work my way through 100, 150 and 220 for a smooth finish. If I'm just making a smooth surface to paint over I usually only use 150. There are so many different grits but these are the ones I use. If I need to sand between coats (which is almost never), I use 220 or sometimes 320 grit sandpaper. 

Steel Wool

If I need to sand the final coat of  Polyurethane

 I use fine Steel Wool.

What can I say......DiFFeReNT STRoKeS for DiFFeReNT FolKS

If you are just starting out, this is for you.

Don't get overwhelmed by all the products and tools. Just pick one and go with it. You will find out for yourself what YOU like and what works for YOU. Start SMALL! I always like to tell people to start with nightstands. You can find them for really cheap (I just found a really cute one for $3) and they don't take a lot of paint to cover.  

Now I have a big mess to go clean up.

I obviously use more products and tools then this so I will make this a page (for easy access) and add to it often.

I hope this was helpful, 

                           EnJoY!